Things to Do in Antananarivo

About Antananarivo

Antananarivo spreads across twelve sacred hills in central Madagascar, rust-red earth and weathered stone stacked in layers that French colonials left behind and Malagasy culture claimed as its own. The capital moves slowly. Street vendors call out in melodic Malagasy while zebu carts share cobblestone paths with Toyotas and motorbikes—old Madagascar refuses to disappear. Ancient tombs sit among busy markets where vanilla, ylang-ylang, and local spices hang thick in the highland air. Time works differently here. Children fly handmade kites from hilltop neighborhoods while their grandmothers weave raffia with techniques passed down through generations, unchanged and unconcerned with modern methods. The Merina kingdoms left their stories on these hills, each sunset painting the landscape in shades you won't find elsewhere. This is Madagascar's capital—lemurs cross your path on the outskirts, rice terraces cascade down mountainsides, and locals treat every conversation like an invitation into their world.

Travel Tips

Transportation: Taxi-brousses (shared taxis) run fixed routes for 500-2,000 MGA ($0.11-0.43). Private taxis cost 5,000-20,000 MGA ($1.08-4.30) - negotiate before entering. No ride-hailing apps work reliably. For intercity travel, taxi-brousses depart from specific stations: Ambodivona for the east, Fasan'ny Karana for the south. Hire a car with driver for 150,000-300,000 MGA ($32-64) per day. Ivato Airport transfers cost 60,000-100,000 MGA ($13-22).

Money: Malagasy ariary (MGA) is the currency at about 4,650 MGA to $1. ATMs at BFV-SG, BOA, and BNI in Analakely work with international cards but charge fees. Cards accepted only at upscale hotels. Budget $20-35 daily. Bring crisp euros or dollars to exchange at banks. The old franc system (1 ariary = 5 old francs) still confuses pricing - always confirm which currency is being quoted.

Cultural Respect: Fady (taboos) vary by region and family - ask before doing anything unusual. Pointing at tombs is universally offensive. Greet elders first and use 'tompoko' (sir/madam). Malagasy people are reserved but warm once comfortable. Photography at sacred sites requires permission. Dress modestly in rural areas. The concept of 'mora mora' (slowly, slowly) defines the pace of life - patience is essential.

Food Safety: Romazava (beef and mixed greens stew) with rice costs 3,000-6,000 MGA ($0.65-1.30) at hotelys. Ravitoto (pounded cassava leaves with pork) runs 2,500-5,000 MGA ($0.54-1.08). Mofo gasy (rice flour pancakes) for breakfast cost 200-500 MGA ($0.04-0.11). Zebu steak at restaurants runs 8,000-15,000 MGA ($1.72-3.23). Fresh tropical fruits at Analakely market are dirt cheap. Rice is eaten three times daily.

When to Visit

Madagascar's highland capital experiences distinct wet and dry seasons that dramatically affect travel experiences. The dry season (May-October) offers the most comfortable conditions with temperatures ranging 15-25°C (59-77°F), minimal rainfall (under 20mm monthly), and crystal-clear skies perfect for photography. This peak season sees hotel rates increase 30-40%, but roads remain accessible and wildlife viewing is optimal. July-August brings cool, sometimes chilly evenings requiring warm clothing. The shoulder months of April and November offer excellent weather with fewer crowds and moderate pricing. The wet season (November-March) transforms the landscape into lush green splendor, with temperatures climbing to 20-30°C (68-86°F) and substantial rainfall averaging 200-300mm monthly. December-February brings the heaviest downpours and potential cyclones, making remote travel challenging. However, this period offers 25-35% lower accommodation rates and incredible photographic opportunities of rice terraces and waterfalls. The Famadihana ceremony (turning of the bones) occurs every 5-7 years between June-September—check local calendars for this extraordinary cultural experience. Independence Day (June 26) features lively celebrations throughout the capital. Budget travelers should consider the wet season, while photographers and cultural ensoiasts will find the dry season optimal despite higher costs.